fashion obsession at its finest

061. Numerous shakings of the head.

2010-06-22T17:56:00.006-04:00

Sometimes when I am in a bad mood I like to mock people. It's a vice and I tend not to like to indulge it. However, I reserve the right to mock anyone and anything I consider to be in extremely poor taste. Style is just about as shallow as you can get, and while it may tick some people off to have their style insulted, I think it's pretty far off the beaten path of serious prejudices. I reserve the right to judge people by what they wear, and at this point I suppose I'm spending way too long explaining myself on what constitutes a personal (though public) blog.

Anyway, let us segue into what is far more entertaining: a mockery of Revolve Clothing's* most utterly despicable clothes. I know a large store must carry a number of styles and labels in order to thrive, but I have only this to say to Revolve: Shame on ye! Fie on thee!!

* I don't hate Revolve. But they have a ton of stock, which provided ample fodder for my criticism.

At first, you glance over these "boots" casually. Then you pause. Then you stare. Then your stomach churns and you feel weak in the knees. Luckily, you're sitting down in front of your computer.

Whoever thought combining black patent leather and Uggs must be spawn of some monstrous devil. I can see these things rising up out of the mist in a horror flick, intent on devouring all that is pure and good and well tailored in the world.

This one is painful, first and foremost, because of the color combination, an artistic homage to several hues of dung. "Hey, wouldn't the True Religion-wearing public love it if we went on a safari kick?" the designers must have wondered. "Let's do something no one has ever done before with a boot!" Unfortunately, after the shoe had been drawn up, after much toil and nights spent gorging on fast food, the design room needed to be cleaned up. "This trash bag is stuffed," someone moaned. "I can't fit anything else into it, not even my Mickey D's wrapper. Can't we just glue it onto the shoe? I bet no one will object."

They were very wrong. Very wrong indeed.

A long, long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, there were several pairs of Marc by Marc Jacobs mouse flats, and they were simply adorable. Everyone wanted a pair, and fangirls paid hundreds of dollars for them (or got knockoffs on eBay). Aware of the great success of the mouse flat, Marc Jacobs grew bloated with pride, and as his mind withered away under the consuming energies of the dark side, he pondered his next fashion move. But he was devoid of inspiration. Luckily, someone tweeted him a picture of their adorable, blind six-year-old, who had haphazardly pasted some cheap rhinestones from the dollar store onto a shoe by accident (as well as some on the wall, the carpet, and its own leg). Enthused, Marc Jacobs hired the kid to design shoes for his Marc by Marc line. You are now witnessing the direct product of this fashion treachery.

More soon, if I am feeling witty.

060. DENIAL

2010-02-11T12:11:00.005-05:00

I'm not coherent right now, but

I honestly cannot believe McQueen is dead. I have not accepted it yet. This is just another of his epic, dramatic performances of art.

060. Baubles, bangles, and the like.

2009-12-14T16:01:00.006-05:00

I can't believe I've gone this long without dedicating a post entirely to Iosselliani. In one of my very first posts, I showcased a ring of theirs. Their product line continues to prosper - it's sold at Barneys Co-Op, among other high-end stores and online boutiques - and I'd really like to mention the brand more in detail.

What I really like about Iosselliani is that it pretty much stays true to form from year to year. That's why jewelry lines can be nice: they don't succumb as easily to trends. Iosselliani falls into the "trash = treasure" style category. The jewelry is a little bit raw, a little bit clunky. Often pieces are combined, and one single ring is a combination of several rings fused together. Iosselliani does not try to segregate gemstones into separate "expensive" and "inexpensive" pieces, either. One of my favorite rings is one that combines a garnet, a river pearl, and several different striations of metal together.

But pictures speak louder than words, so here are a few samples of Iosselliani jewelry:

Iosselliani.com

Iosselliani.com

Iosselliani.com

I'm sure there's jewelry in there somewhere. (below)

Iosselliani.com

Their e-store isn't currently working, but you can still purchase jewelry from their line on websites such as ShopGinny, BonaDrag, and Tobi.

059. Cruise control.

2009-12-07T12:58:00.005-05:00

I am rather infamous for visiting online boutiques I've never heard of before and trusting them enough to purchase something there. I suppose I'm lucky in that I've never suffered any negative consequences. I have a good feel for what's good and what's bad--what's quality and what isn't.

Perhaps I'm bragging. ;) But the fact is, I am very good at estimating what size I'd be even though I'm not able to try the item on; I somehow know this without understanding how I know it.

Jewelry is more difficult because quality is difficult to assess. Unless you are buying from a known manufacturer or designer, you have to go by the stock photo and the description of the item to determine whether the purchase is worth the risk. There are plenty of relatively unknown jewelry merchants online that I'd like to take a chance on - but don't have an opportunity to because, well, I don't have the money to risk it.

I did end up getting a necklace from one website, LuShae Jewelry. It features a cluster of flowers, each containing a tiny CZ stone.

JewelryArtDesigns.com (PHOTOGRAPHY MY OWN)

This greatly added to my jewelry collection because, honestly, I have no feminine necklaces - this is something I could actually wear to a formal affair. As opposed to the hummingbird skull, glass dragon's tear, and ceramic owl pendants I keep on my necklace tree. Not to mention the enormous collection of serpent jewelry I possess. This piece is milder (in color, too) but well wrought. The chain is of good quality, as is the bouquet, which is coated with 14k gold, rose gold, and rhodium bonded white gold.

Also, I ended up liking the jewelry box immensely. I know that sounds silly, but it's awesome. It is so crisp, it looks like the edges were cut with a laser. And I am all for expensive-looking boxes. I mean, nobody wants to be presented with their engagement ring in a JCPenney cardboard box, you know? But I just like fancy boxes for things in general. It shows that a decent amount of money went into each stage of production.

JewelryArtDesigns.com (PHOTOGRAPHY MY OWN)

As for the rest of the website, I pass a positive verdict. I think the promise rings are pretty easy on the eyes--better than most rings on the market these days. The earrings section had a few winners, including the Once Upon A Star earrings. But I just got my ears pierced (!), so I'll have to wait before buying anything ear-related.

The Pendants section is up and down. There are some creative and unusual color/stone combinations, but there are also a few tacky designs, such as the Pave Piggy Pendant. In conclusion, I liked my choice, but it's likely that each person would pick a different piece since this collection varies significantly in style from piece to piece.

058. Shoe shopping is always in season.

2009-12-05T18:26:00.003-05:00

There is a lot to be said for Jeffrey Campbell shoes. Notwithstanding the fact that they are primarily knockoffs of very high-end shoes, they are comfortable, creative, and reasonably affordable. And might I stress again that they are comfortable. That actually matters to me when picking out a shoe, believe it or not.

The interesting thing about Jeffrey Campbell shoes is that they have spread to the darkest corner of online shopping boutiques worldwide. And no boutique possesses the same exact collection of shoes; in fact, each seller has a rather unique collection of Jeffrey Campbell. (This is very frustrating when you're price-comparing and only one or two stores have a particular pair.)

A few pairs I like as of late:

KarmaLoop.com
Jeffrey Campbell Posh Shoe, $146

KarmaLoop.com
Jeffrey Campbell Michelle CT Heel in Purple Suede, $105

ShopNastyGal.com
Jeffrey Campbell Legal Zip Wedge Boot, $185

And now, from some similarly awesome shoe designers, a further collection of commingled crown jewels of the shoe kingdom...

AmelieBoutique.com
Tristan Blair Sarah Studded Boots, £285

PixieMarket.com
Alain Thigh High Leather Boot, $286

SimplySoles.com
Lovely People Piper, $140

057. The gathering gloom

2009-08-12T19:27:00.003-04:00

I tend to do almost all my shopping exclusively through the internet. As a result, shopping in physical boutiques is a treat for me. I enjoy walking through boutiques because the layout of the stores are often as artistic as the clothing they sell. And I like checking out to boutiques who host promising websites online. In the past, they have almost always exceeded my expectations.

But I went to Philly to go shopping recently, and then NYC, to the lower East Side. Don't get me wrong, the shops were so fun to walk through and the people were great too. I also had a marvelous time with my fellow companion-shoppers. But very few things caught my attention, and I had to excuse some flaws in order to justify trying them on. An enormous, poofy cream blouse with a bird print that was utterly unwearable except as part of a clown costume, or a skirt with a petticoat (worn while on a stroll in the English country, alongside Elizabeth Bennett). A beautiful bright red t-shirt top with some quirky art print on it, completely, overly voluminous and an obscene $88. These things could look good on, and the red top did look good on, but I was not so delighted by it as to be persuaded to spend such a ridiculous chunk of cash on it. I would wear these things, but this is the time I should be investing in sensible pieces, not adding to my costume wardrobe. I shall not mention the endless pieces of blah that littered the rest of the hangers. Should I be investing in socks this year?*

Boutique shopping is supposed to be the cream of the crop. These little niche stores, for me, are my opportunity to browse hand-picked items. The boutiques are so tiny that they should only be carrying the most palatable wares. Why then has the experience been such a disaster this summer?

Well, I blame the ongoing 80's trend which seems not to be willing to lay down and die, even though it's been hanging on for a good three years. The cropped shirt, the oversized shoulder pads, and the boyfriend jean are all styles that push at the peripheries of fashion without becoming big enough to swallow themselves up and disappear into the void again. Sometimes things need to get big so they can then go out with a bang, not to return for another two or three decades. But it seems people have the sense not to produce these trends in huge volume. So they are never getting that opportunity to rise up, then fall down. What to do, what to do?

The best bet right now, for myself, is not to buy. I am, however, an insatiable shopper. I try not to buy, but the more I try not to, the more I fail. Instead I end up resorting to culling the best from the worst and finding beauty in it. A few considably "decent" things:

KarmaLoop.com

Hellz BellzThe Agent Bellz Jacket, $33.95

Not sure if the asymmetrical zip is doing anyone any favors (this comes into conflict with boobage, have you noticed), but you can't beat an 82% off sale.

ShopAmelieBoutique.com
Heimstone Coral Randy Dress, £175.00

I respect Heimstone. Primarily because Heimstone hates me. And anyone else who does not have a perfect body. Heimstone says, "Unless you are awesome, you cannot wear me. And even if you are awesome, you probably cannot afford me. So, I'm going to be hanging out, just to make you feel bad. And if you don't like that, you can suck it." Heimstone also says, "And just in an effort to make you feel even worse about yourself, I am going to go the other extreme and do the opposite of vanity sizing so you are too big to fit into your real size. Enjoy!" Heimstone has the classic popular-girl-holier-than-thou complex, and does not pretend not to, and I like Heimstone for that honesty, and feel cowed by it. I have a masochistic streak.

Littersf.com

LITTERSF Crypt Walk, $80

Here's a fun little gem. Notice that it's not the shoe that's $80, which would be a real steal, but instead, the strap around the angle. Yeah, that studded black piece of leather with the chain. That piece of leather with some metal on it is $80. The shoe is probably about four times that much. But if you want to get into credit card debt, I recommend buying the set. Now, if only the website would provide a link to the shoes. This site is most annoying.

* NOTE: I would mention that my biggest beef with Anthropologie right now, besides their completely unnecessary site redesign, is the fact that they keep advertising multiple outfits with this one particular pair of knee socks. The socks are adorable. In fact the socks are even more adorable than anything else on the site. But is there a link, anywhere, so that I might purchase these socks? No, there is not. For this reason, Anthropologie, you should be ashamed of yourself, for you have lost a considerable amount of business.

056. Not (Bona) Dragging my heels when it comes to this one...

2009-07-30T19:12:00.002-04:00

Who knew Bona Drag had a blog? It's definitely one worth scrolling through, half eye candy snapshots of the items at the store and half adorable anecdotes about the owners' lives. Go here to see it:

http://bonadragboutique.blogspot.com/

055. Shopping expedition!

2009-07-28T19:16:00.002-04:00

I just trekked through the boutiques for the first time in Olde City in Philadelphia. Here are a few of the things I bought there and at the Cherry Hill Mall...

From Urban Outfitters:

(Tried this one on but didn't end up getting it - still so cute though!)

Interesting t-shirt from H&M. I usually hate H&M, but this shirt stood out to me.

Jeffrey Campbell shoes I've been longing for since the spring :)

Publick top (obviously needs a tank underneath)

054. Announcing...

2009-07-24T02:12:00.006-04:00

Do yourself a favor and check out Hayden-Harnett's Fall/Winter '09 lookbook...it's definitely worth the time.

http://haydenharnett.com/news/fall09lookbook.pdf

053. Resolution.

2009-07-18T01:08:00.003-04:00

I couldn't get myself to post here for the longest time. Finally, I realized that I had been resisting posting because it is such a laborious task. I have a habit of writing profusely, but when it comes to clothing, I experience great difficulty putting my thoughts into words. It's incredibly hard to explain why I like a particular piece of clothing. My fascination derives from the visual and tactile experience. Trying to describe the sensation of tweed on skin, or how the combination of chartreuse and lilac makes me feel, is terribly difficult. It's like trying to explain what makes a person charismatic. These sorts of things must be experienced directly and cannot be entirely captured in words.

So from now on, I'm sticking with more pictures and reducing the verbiage.

052. The Unbearable Softness of Cashmere.

2009-01-27T14:14:00.003-05:00

LiaLintern.com
I am so glad to have stumbled upon NotCouture.com. I don't have a lot of time available anymore to browse the web, and this nifty site does the work of locating interesting designers, websites, and sales, for me, without flooding me with an excess of posts. About three to four new links are posted a day, which is perfect for me.

The best site they've linked me to thus far is that of Julia Lintern, who is a structural aerospace engineer turned designer. Her latest tour de force of designer genius is her Lia Lintern collection. Not only does she express her precision-based work ethic through a collection of truly splendid cashmere coats, she manifests her economic brilliance by marketing said coats at an affordable price point. It's hella hard to find affordable cashmere, let alone a full-blown cashmere coat. J.Crew - a mass retailer - sometimes charges $200 a cashmere cardigan. And yet some of these coats cost as little as $600.

Adding to the coats' appeal is the website's shocking offer to CUSTOM MAKE a coat for you, AT NO EXTRA COST. As the website explains, "Lia Lintern designs coats that [are] made to fit and flatter the female figure. So, that's why S, M, and L just don't cut it. . . . All you have to do is fill out the order form and provide us with 3 important measurements: your Bust Measurement, your Waist Measurement, and your Hip Measurement."

Finally. Couture (well, approximately) for under $1,000. Have we traveled back in time?

LiaLintern.com
This coat is the epitome of elegance!

LiaLintern.com

051. Exploration.

2009-01-25T07:43:00.004-05:00

For reasons unbeknownst to me, every once in a while, I Google (well, Yahoo!--I don't actually like Google all that much) Heimstone. I figure one of these days, it's going to go on sale somewhere on the web at a low enough price that I can afford it. Thus far, I haven't been successful. Oh well, I will keep trying.

Anyway, although I didn't find any Heimstone this time around, during my quest, I discovered a number of boutiques that I'd never seen before on the Web. I have an enormous folder of bookmarked boutiques - probably over 200 in total - so I'm always shocked to find new ones. By now you'd think I'd know about them all. What number of people know about them, to the extent that they make a profit? I suppose most also have a material location in a city, too, which is where they make the majority of their sales.

But because Heimstone is a pretty good representative of the type of clothing I like, I got linked to boutiques that carry not only Heimstone, but a wide variety of other clothing that is germane to my own preferences. Here's a sampling of clothing from the boutiques I discovered during my Heimstone search.

80spurple.com
Wesc Miss Ellie Leather Jacket in Almond Brown, $452

80spurple.com
Hazel & Jaloux 3/4 Sleeve Button Up Top in Taupe, $74

LaGarconne.com
Sissi Rossi Knotted Shoulder Bag, $657

ShopAcrimony.com
Sretsis Sparkling Dress, $151

AnicaBoutique.com
Vena Cava Shiva Dress, $275

AnicaBoutique.com
Clu T-shirt Dress, $133

shopjinny.com
3.1 Phillip Lim Lace-Up Tunic Dress, $76.75

shopjinny.com
Geren Ford 3 Snap Belt, $45.50

BirdLA.com
Heimstone Targa Dress, $199.50

Finishing, of course, with the Heimstone...oh, how I wish I could again afford $200 dresses! Law school is both a blessing and a curse.

050. There and back again.

2008-12-19T16:14:00.005-05:00

After a prolonged leave of absence (blame law school. BLAME IT!), I have returned, because I can't stay away any longer (and I am on break!). I went into an Anthropologie for the first time in over two months. I was crazed, it was an explosion of lights, texture, drama, I have missed clothes so badly, it is almost painful.

For some reason, I have saved a lot of links to jewelry, which is surprising because I wear so little of it. I thought I'd create a post memorializing my fascination with things I actually have very low motivation to buy.

CatBirdNYC.com
Digby & Iona 14-point Stag Ring, $210

I was thinking what fun it would be to name jewelry like this. I'd title this ring "Stag Party." Ha ha...okay, I'll stop.

Refinery29Shops.com
In God We Trust ID Bracelet with Lion Charm, $40

This is so reasonably priced, and yet so cute. I've had this on my wishlist for the longest time. It can be worn with so many different outfits.

BonaDrag.com
Stephanie Simek pussy willow earrings, $125

I adore jewelry made out of plants, or fashioned after plants.

Bona Drag is one of my favorite online boutiques these days. They have the most interesting things. I bought a Knox NYC bag from their website, and they did such a wonderful job packaging it--special tissue paper and their own mix CD (for free, of course). I only wish they carried more items; their selection is very small.

BonaDrag.com
Made Her Think double band chain ring, $336

Another Bona Drag item. I love that the rings are chained together.

PixieMarket.com
Daydream Nation gold spill necklace, $139

This is a very creative concept. Finally, someone getting metaphorically sloppy with gold. Kind of a metaphor for the American economy right now...

How ironic that none of these items are currently on sale. I reaped the benefits of some really amazing sales yesterday (J.Crew rainboots? Marked down from $88 to $14). It leads me to wonder, how insane will the sales be in January? After all, the mark-downs have only begun. Anticipation!

049. Fall shopping: Wants, needs, and cheap thrills.

2008-09-13T01:38:00.004-04:00

I try to reinvent myself frequently. This is because I feel as though I don't possess a fulcrum; I am all over the place, I am moody and vacillatory, and when it comes to clothes, I have difficulty sticking to a single theme. I love both conservative and rebellious pieces. On the one hand, I am very much an Anthropologie girl at heart, but I also have my rocker roots, and as much as I wanted to throw out all my angry red tops and my jeans with rhinestone skulls and become a cosy, frilly, quietly whimsical girl this autumn once and for all, I've fallen prey to my own unusual tastes yet again. I can't get rid of any part of me quite yet, so I remain chaotic and conflicting.

If there is a unifying theme to my style, it is the eccentricity. I always need an unusual signature piece to center my outfit around, and while my intent is never to startle observers, it usually has that effect. What I find amusing is that lay people do think I have good taste. The funniest incident to date occurred just the other day, when I waltzed into a pizza joint to meet a friend in my black patent platforms, pinstriped skinny blazer, and wayfarers. (Not that crazy an outfit, but let's not belabor the point.) There happened to be a fan blowing full force as I stepped into the establishment and, still having my sunglasses on, apparently, I looked like a "movie star incognito." I think this is flattery coming from most people. But I think it ultimately depends on which celebrity we're talking about. ;) There are only a small handful I find fashionable.

I generally don't feel as though my outfits cohere entirely; but I'd rather wear what I like even if it's a little mismatched, than stick to safe solids and boring cuts. I suppose that's the great debate: keep it safe, or risk a catastrophe? It really just depends on the person; and their decision marks them out for who they are.

Sparrow cardigan, Balenciaga top, Ray-Ban wayfarers
But enough about me. Onto clothes: here are the signature pieces I'm coveting this autumn!

ShopBird.com
Rachel Comey poe handpainted wedge clog, $375

I have been so obsessed with checker prints on accessories. I own a Cynthia Rowley tote with checker print, but I still can't get enough of it. The Dolce & Gabbana bags from last spring rekindled my interest, and I keep seeing it in odd places. Must have shoes!

RevolveClothing.com
Morphine Generation Toile Legging in Purple, $79

I lost interest in leggings pretty quickly. In fact, right now I only own two pairs! How better to bolster my legging collection than with such an unusual set of leggings? And the elastic band looks forgiving. I rarely wear my plain black leggings because they habitually endow me with a muffin top. They fit fine everywhere but the waist, because the band is too narrow and too tight. In contrast, these seem more promising.

RevolveClothing.com
Diesel Bubble Wrap Head Bag in Grey, $110

I have been needing a new tote. This one looks tempting. It says the material is nylon, which I take to mean that even though it's a light color, stains could be scrubbed out. And unlike most Diesel bags, the logo is concealed! Hooray, a non-tacky, reasonably priced tote. (But we shall see; I might go for an Orla Kiely if I have the funds. Only time will tell.)

RevolveClothing.com
Carolina Amato Unlined Leather Snappy Driver in Green, $41

Okay, I think we all secretly covet the Chanel fingerless gloves. I've basically resigned myself to the fact that until I get a real job, I am not going to be shelling out $700 for two cosmetic scraps of leather. I can't believe these are under $50! I'm afraid if I wait any longer, they're going to be gone (and I'll be bawling my eyes out).

Anthropologie.com
Guinevere Windy Day Cardigan, $128

I'm surprised this is the only Anthropologie piece that made it to the list. Fear not, this will soon be rectified. It IS the most significant piece, the one I've been eyeing for over a month. Since I need a new jacket for fall, I'm planning to make this The One. I love autumn leaves, and the asymmetry of the front is also intriguing...

RevolveClothing.com
Botkier Jeanne Pump in Dark Grey & Yellow Suede, $375

I won't be buying these, I'll tell you that - firstly because I'd rather spend $400 on clothes, and secondly because, as I've complained before, suede is bad for shoes. But those colors are heavenly together. Hello, gorgeous.

RevolveClothing.com
Anzevino & Florence Triangle Pants in Dark Grey, $158

I like that these pants create a geometric flare.

ShopBop.com
A Peace Treaty Qatna Scarf, $121

There's nothing else to say about this scarf except: the colors, the colors!

So yes, that's all for now--but I'll be trawling around. Expect more finds later!

048. The whimsically preppy

2008-09-11T17:01:00.002-04:00

Refinery29.com
What's not to love about Obedient Sons & Daughters? I sure can't think of a single thing.

(I own ancient bedsheets that have this exact print. I'm tempted to make a ruffled blouse out of them now...)

047. Evaluating the eccentric (revisited).

2008-08-15T14:34:00.006-04:00

Every once in awhile, I have this recurring conversation with myself. It goes like this:

"That has got to be the most bizarre thing I've ever seen.

"...But...I love it.

"Yeah, it's definitely kind of weird--but--"

"I MUST OWN THIS."

I will admit that a significant number of clothing and accessories I own have sprung from the resolution of this particular dialogue. And no, I'm not going to be ashamed about it, because I am most passionate about clothing that is practically offensive in its bombasticness. I'm not talking about a god-awful Gucci monogrammed pair of pants; no, that's just shockingly repulsive (unless you are able to work wonders with the rest of the outfit). When things are shockingly bizarre, at first sight, I am fascinated with them. As I begin to unravel what makes them so unusual, I realize it is the tiny elements which are beautiful and the combination which is odd. And by this time, I've decided whether you like the item, or if it's been badly done.

I'm currently trying to decide whether I like these Marc Jacobs flats.

ShopBop.com
Okay, so there are probably two potential reactions that people would have for these shoes: 1) Omigod, do we really need more Sesame Street in fashion? Down with the clown shoes! 2) What a beautiful color palette for shoes! I like how playful these look. They would definitely be a signature piece for one of my outfits.

I happen to situate myself closer to the latter camp, but I have a few complaints:

1) Suede sucks. In my experience, suede is even worse than wearing white, because at least you can get something white washed, bleached, or dry cleaned, but suede has this annoying habit of not only attracting dirt, but adhering to it. And let's not de-emphasize the fact that suede also seems to carry static electricity; it picks up everything. And then of course you must remember that suede has that annoying two-tone quality where you have to, like, rub it all in the same direction or it's going to look spotty. Don't get me wrong, I love suede and I wish I could wear it all the time! But it isn't durable. I mean, it is, but it doesn't look good for too long.

2) Marc Jacobs shoes are rarely comfortable. I've tried on so many pairs and, well, this is what I know. My feet have been in bad shape since the beginning of the summer, and for this I will not blame a shoe company, but could a little padding a la Seychelles really hurt? I don't understand why shoemakers don't consider comfort. I hate having to earn my way into a pair of shoes via trial by fire.

3) Is the pom-pom really all that endearing? Hey, I am totally up for pom-poms. I had this teacher in elementary school who endeared me to pom-poms by passing them out in class as a reward for good behavior. She invented this myth about these special pom-poms where they each had a personality and were afraid of the light, so you had to cup them in your hands. So I have a soft spot in my heart for the secret lives of pom-poms. But at a closer look, these particular pom-poms just aren't that great. They're kind of shabby-looking. By which I mean cheap. I am absolutely certain that you could find these pom-poms for five cents at a crafts store. In which case, I might as well just buy a suede shoe from J.Crew for half the price, and superglue the accessory on it. This would cost FAR less, plus the shoe might even be of better quality. Yes, I suppose I'm just a pom-pom elitist at heart.

So, even though my observations here are unavoidably negative, I don't mind this shoe...I'd just rather see it on someone else's foot than mine. Let bygones be bygones, Marc. Since your derivative collection is evolving very well, I'll simply expect better from you next season.

Oh, and I promise to update more. I'm not sure how well I'll live up to this promise, however, because law school starts on Monday...

046. Dressing oneself (The Oft-futility of Lacking a Waist and Going Shopping).

2008-05-15T11:17:00.005-04:00

Anthropologie.com
This is a beautiful top, no? I've been seeing a lot of clothing in this style recently--I mean the bustier top, usually paired with halter straps. It's an old style obviously purloined from earlier decades. I've seen it gracing dresses, tops like this one, and bathing suits.

But wish as I might, I will never buy this top. Because of the price tag? Nay. Because I don't like to purchase clothes online? As if. I actually went into an Anthropologie over the weekend looking to buy a dress, any dress, pretty much regardless of price. I am taking a trip to Europe soon and I would like to have an extensive repertoire of cool summer dresses to bring to stave off the sweating that accompanies the warmer months. But I was barely successful in finding a single dress. Alas, my body is not fit for summer dresses. Try as I might, they just aren't for me.

I have a body some would covet, others would scorn, and others would pay little attention. I have no waist to speak of, no hips, no butt, but unfortunately medium-sized breasts that are, alas, not all too firm. So I can't wear low-cut tops because I just look sloppy; in fact I avoid all halter tops for the same reason. I attempt to avoid showing any cleavage because it just makes me look bigger; and I NEVER leave the house without a bra. So I don't have an hourglass figure but I do have assets that I don't want to show off. What I look best in is a structured dress, one that defines the waist (much like high-waisted shorts do) and doesn't cut too low. Preferably, I like a curved neckline that hits one to two inches below the clavicle. Seriously.

So I walk into Anthropologie bent on perusing the sale section, or perhaps indulging myself in a full-price purchase if necessary, when what to my wandering eyes should appear...but all manner of low-cut, halter top, lack of structure, spaghetti strap dresses, arrayed in the loveliest colors, looking cool and breathy and flowy and effortless and...everything that I absolutely cannot wear for fear of looking like a gargantuan balloon. Did I mention how much I utterly detest spaghetti-straps?

To add to my list of Reasons Why I Hate Summer Weather, I shall mark down "Breasts causing annoyance, agitation, and cleavage sweat." Also to add: "Temptation to buy clothes that are unflattering. Lack of palatable options. Envy. Disgust. Frustration. Annihilation."

Help?

045. The battle with bag addiction continues.

2008-05-13T00:07:00.004-04:00

I'm always on the fence with Diesel. Visiting the store on Union Square never ceases to confuse me. The bodyguards loom forbiddingly at the front door, giving any non-leather-clad-hipster the evil eye. The place is never packed but instead rather bald, with a paltry number of browsers cruising the racks of merchandise. I never know whether the atmosphere is elitist or street, because all manner of people can be seen wearing Diesel, from poor to rich. In short, I never know what image I give off when I myself wear Diesel...is it a covetable status symbol or representative of something undesirable?

Diesel does have the habit of producing unattractive crap for unreasonably high prices. I primarily like their accessories, although the European Diesels do offer something palatable in the way of clothing. Anyway, I was trolling online for bags (as is my wont) and what did I find but this:

Ssense.com
Does this honestly remind anyone of Diesel? The little oval insignia makes it look almost Versace-ish. The clincher? This bag is only $144. I mean, when was the last time you saw an attractive bag for under $200, sans discounts? All you can get for that price are Coach and Dooney & Burke, dreaded and detested scourges of the fashion world. Hiss! Flee!

I then discovered this equally tempting piece of utilitarian delight.

Ssense.com
Retailing for - shock - a mere $116! Who would have thought? The last bag I liked that was made by Diesel cost upwards of $600 and resembled an upside-down leather parachute. It was quite genius, although unwieldy. But this--could be useful! For my trip...for carrying--useful things...

Should I try to talk myself out of this one, or just succumb to the beauty of the splurge? I want that purple bag...

044. Deja vu.

2008-05-08T15:26:00.004-04:00

Let me tell you a little story.

Lorick New York
I work at a law firm, and one day my boss waltzed into work looking even more stylish than usual. I stared at the adorable print on her blouse, and thought, "I've seen that before. I LOVE it. Where have I seen that before?"

Time passed.

I watch Gossip Girl fanatically (for the clothes and the Chuck), and one evening I was watching reruns of the Thanksgiving Day episode. I stared at the adorable print on Blair's dress, and thought, "I've seen that before. I LOVE it. Wait...OH MY GOD THEY ACTUALLY SELL THAT DESIGNER LINE IN THE TRISTATE AREA???"

However, I wasn't about to ask my boss for style tips (we already have similar versions of the same Botkier bag, and I'd rather it not appear like I'm mimicking her, which I'm sincerely not). I figured I'd find out who the designer of the blouse and dress was eventually.

Lorick New York
Lo and behold, I was browsing the blogosphere today when who should I stumble upon but Abigail Lorick herself, a.k.a. Eleanor Waldorf. I've known for ages that Waldorf's line is not a smattering of random garments snatched from real-world designers but instead derives from a single collection produced by a real designer. I didn't know that this particular dress was part of her line.

I don't own a lot of prints when it comes to clothing; I'm more of a textures and colors girl, but I am definitely inspired to be more creative after viewing Lorick's collection. The benefit of prints is that they breathe new life into old shapes. When it comes to clothing, you can either be innovative with the tailoring and cut, or you can be extremely creative in the design of your fabric. Lorick employs both methods to create garments that seem, to the untrained eye, conservative; yet there is a lot going on in her clothing line that embraces innovation. Anyway, I'm impressed. Lorick New York just screams quality to me.

Lorick New York
Anyway, even if I'm a bit late to jump on the bandwagon (I know everyone else blogged about Lorick ages ago), I must pitch my vote of support. I've liked her designs from day one, as she seems to share the same kind of pared-down sophistication that I covet.

043. The Unbearable Lightness of Pearls.

2008-05-06T16:11:00.006-04:00

Stock image (Audrey Hepburn)

I am not the type of person who wears heavy bangles, dangling necklaces, or earrings that drag your earlobe down. I feel weighed down by solid metal jewelry, and rings and necklaces often bother my skin. I prefer simplicity over complexity, and lightness over heaviness.

I've been thinking lately that perhaps what my ensembles have been missing is jewelry. It doesn't need to be complicated or excessive. Often when an outfit doesn't look right it's because it's missing that key element—that one thing that pulls it all together. You need diamond earrings to glitz up the LBD, heavy amulet-like crosses to make an all-black outfit goth, an enormous wooden cuff bracelet to enhance the boho vibe of your peasant blouse. You need pearls to turn any outfit, wild or conservative, into an instant classic.

Cultured pearl necklace
As legend would have it, pearls begin their life as an irritating grit of sand, which the oyster encases in layers upon layers of a glossy substance. This technically isn't true - the impetus for a pearl's conception is typically organic matter - but I am still reminded of the tendency of people to conceal perceived flaws by placing a veneer of beauty over them. I am thinking not only of excellent dental work but of artists who have constructed masterpieces inspired by some hidden pain. The ugliest things can be transformed into objects of beauty. I am also thinking that attractive but twisted female villains would do well to wear pearls as a symbol of their true nature. Or if you prefer to be less metaphoric, pearls are a straightforward symbol for elegance.

All of this thinking has caused me to conduct some research. The site Pearl Necklace Jewelry (catchy, I know) offers what seems to be the best price available on the Web. The pearls are apparently sold at wholesale price and the clasps and/or studs are 14K gold (good for me, since my ears are very sensitive). Purchases can be made with PayPal and security is managed by VeriSign. Shipping is free worldwide (sweet) and they do provide a guarantee that the pearls are genuine.

This reminds me, I need to do just as thorough a check-up on all the sites I buy from...

Here are a few pearls (ha) from this website:

Black pearl necklace

Akoya pearl necklace

Freshwater pearl necklace

Pink pearl necklace

I think what appeals to me about pearls is the type of color: smoky hues, dusky rose, warm charcoal. Everything is muted and subtle and soft. And pearls have a contoured, organic shape, no jagged edges or lines.

In conclusion, you can't go wrong with pearl jewelry - it's never gaudy or untasteful.

I must do more posts about jewelry! The last one I did was for that combination jewel-pearl ring from ShopAdele.com, and that was back in the fall.

042. Elizabeth James; Marketing tactics.

2008-04-16T14:38:00.006-04:00

ShopBop.com
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen's collection, Elizabeth James, just touched down at ShopBop today, and I couldn't wait to check out the lookbook. Apparently the label's name is based on the statistical study that revealed that Elizabeth and James are two of the most successful-sounding names in our (whose?) society. The idea is that when people hear the name, they will imagine an sophisticated, esoteric, and enviable assortment of clothing. The inner snob in each of us will be influenced to buy Elizabeth James in the hopes that it will endow us with similar qualities.

Now whether you buy into this AT ALL is entirely up to you. I am not a big fan of Elizabeth James but I don't particularly dislike it either. I think the Olsens have been successful in creating a line of simplistic but mechanically creative garments. There's a touch of casual and a touch of professional chic, for whomever is either an obsessive fan of the twins or just somebody who happens to like $225 gym shorts. The problem with celebrity-assisted clothing lines is that you pretty much have to like the celebrity to like the clothing. Your (dis)like for the celebrity can potentially cloud your judgment of the clothing itself. But here, I don't see much of either girl's personality, or maybe I'm just not trying hard enough to look. As with The Row, they've gone very basic.

There are some extreme cases in which celebrity lines are nothing more than a rehash of what that person wears on a regular basis. (Take Lauren Conrad, who brashly regurgitated her favorite pieces of clothing all over the so-called runway of her self-titled "collection.") Elizabeth Charles is the other extreme. It's difficult to difficult to deduce the celebs' taste. I suppose the Marianne jacket is probably the hallmark piece of the collection. But since the personality of the clothing falls flat, the backbone of the advertising must fall to the visual effects, and ShopBop has this technique down to a fine art.

ShopBop.com
I read Almost Girl's blog on a regular basis and for a while now I have been reflecting on what she said awhile ago about "guerrilla shoots"--e.g. fashion photoshoots done for online publications/websites. For online boutiques, advertising is based just as much on visual seduction as it is on word of mouth or linkage. And because there are so many such sites around, to get into the big league you have to have a competitive clothes turnout; a constant barrage of new and interesting things. Visually, this translates into the need for a super editorial campaign onsite and in banner ads--and these must cycle continually on a fast-paced schedule. ShopBop does a great job of creating their weekly lookbook, as well as their individual item presentation. The photography is creative as well as streamlined, and this is, I believe, even more important than the actual clothes they sell. Some people will buy a toothpick for $20 if it's marketed properly. All businesses aim to do the equivalent.

There are hundreds if not thousands of online boutiques, and it's easy to fall into the void if you don't stay at the top of your game. Don't deny it--we first judge a book by its cover, always, even if what draws each person in is a different feature. ShopBop happens to have a clean layout, a skilled photographic team, and a professional email notification setup. Although I later recanted my love for Elizabeth James after looking closely at the clothing and realizing it wasn't quite my style, the photo gallery at first drew me in with its aesthetically pleasing styling. If I were an impulse buyer, I'd have been snared.

041. Revisiting un objet d'art.

2008-04-08T23:47:00.004-04:00

I snapped this of the BFF when we were trying on clothes at CUSP.

It's a good thing neither of us actually wanted to front the cash for this dress because we might have had to fight to the death for it.

Oh, Marc by Marc Jacobs SS08.

040. For sale...come check it out!

2008-04-08T16:10:00.003-04:00

I'm cleaning out my closet in preparation for a lot of expenses in the near future, and I'm inviting everyone who's reading this to come see what I have for sale! It's listed on my regular blog. Come take a look:

EVERYTHING MUST GO.

Clothing from:
-Miss Sixty
-Anthropologie
-Free People
-Arden B
-L.A.M.B.
-Bebe
-Sample Sales
-& more!

039. Cravings.

2008-04-04T23:11:00.005-04:00

I do have a weakness for Forever 21. I spend plenty of time berating retail chains like H&M for mass-producing poor quality clothes, but every once in a while, I need my fix--of cheap clothes. It's nice not to always have to pay $120 or more for a shirt. Even if the stitching is always unraveling and you know the reason they give you extra buttons is because the ones on the garment fall off if you so much as breathe on them (case in point: I destroyed my high-waisted shorts today by pulling them on too quickly--a button popped off and is impossible to reattach!). And they're pretty cute sometimes. As long as I don't recognize which designer they've ripped off, my conscience doesn't suffer too much.

I never have enough hot-weather clothing. But I'm going to Europe for a few weeks this summer, so I need a few new things that I can throw by the wayside if I run out of baggage space ~~because I've bought other, better clothes in Paris~~.

Here are a few tops that are actually quite cute and could be paired with a pair of designer shorts or skirt:

Brianna Woven Top, $24.80
Forever21.com

Crinkled Metallic Wrap, $22.80
Forever21.com

Candy Stripe Babydoll, $24.90
Forever21.com

My best advice when shopping stores like H&M and Forever 21 is to avoid faux-expensive material that looks satiny, as it will inevitably come off as trashy; shun the viscose-spandex hybrids, as they pill and age within mere hours; cotton is your best bet. I always replace the cheap-looking buttons on shirts with quality, vintage buttons from Etsy. You can also make any other minor alterations yourself, given you know how to operate a needle and thread in the most basic ways. You might argue it's futile to embellish what will eventually fall apart no matter what, but my belief is, if you're going to wear it, for however short a time, you might as well maximize its potential.

038. Marc by Marc Jacobs, redux.

2008-03-25T10:41:00.004-04:00

With the recent explosion of fashion qua pop culture, many designers have jumped on the bandwagon to create diffusion lines. After all, everyone wants something with a designer logo on it, and designers can easily take advantage of this by creating a cheaper line. There are only so many wealthy clientele who can afford your $3000 dresses; why not make an additional profit? It's a quick fix for both consumer and producer, although I myself am getting a little disturbed at how mainstream designer goods are getting. The label isn't worth shit if you can buy a piece of Mizrahi on sale for $3.29. (That decimal point is not displaced. Although, diffusion lines usually range from the $90-$600 price range these days, and Isaac Mizrahi for Target isn’t technically a "diffusion" line, just a sponsored collection.)

Marc by Marc Jacobs has been a source of frustration for me for quite a while. I used to really adore Marc Jacobs. His collections were fantastic a few years ago, he was definitely one of my favorite American designers.

But my dislike of Jacobs' most recent work is a different subject entirely. I couldn't stand Marc by Marc Jacobs when it first started showing, for two reasons. First, the line wasn't even designed by Jacobs, so what was the point? Okay, so this apparently happens a lot - but honestly, it didn't seem to have any relevancy to the real Marc Jacobs line! It was just him stamping his name onto these cheaper, unrelated outfits! Second, the clothing and bags were literally cheap. I've been to MMJ stores, I've seen the clothes in person, the buttons are badly sewn, the seams are nothing like regular Marc Jacobs RTW.

I also thought most of the clothing was heinously ugly.

But recently, MMJ has been shaping up. Every season I notice more things I like. The prices have begun to reflect the improving quality and taste of the garments; I also like the bags more. I do find it hilarious that the so-called MMJ shoes are just as expensive as, say, a pair of Miu Mius. That will never cease to amuse me. Anyway, the clothing and bags are achieving more recognition as times goes on.

From MMJ Spring 2008:

Style.com
Um, how fabulous is this outfit? It’s quirky and adorable and all kinds of pretty. I must have it!...After I sell my soul on eBay.

Style.com
Available here at ShopBop
After traipsing around Neiman’s, Bloomie’s, and Cusp all evening eyeing the MMJ displays, I finally tried on this dress and fell in love. Well, I already knew I wanted it. But now I know I have to have it. "Sale" being the operative word here. If only ShopBop would make some obscene error and accidentally mark down this dress to 75% off, or better, 95% off, or…well, I can dream, damnit.

I know that dress has been splattered all over the pages of every fashion magazine that has enough revenue to print in color, but whatever, you’re seeing it again because it’s AMAZING.

Style.com
And finally, for a peek at fall's MMJ collection. Also looking quite good. Some designers have been focusing on the tailoring of garments lately, or the texture or shape of the clothing. Marc by Marc Jacobs' most noticeable feature is patterning. And who doesn't love a smattering of polka dots on a eentsy little black-collared cream blouse and criss-cross stitching on a pencil skirt?

Shaddup!

037. To file under blunders: The Baroque.

2008-03-20T14:01:00.007-04:00

I started keeping an eye on Miu Miu back in Spring 2006. It was the little V-neck star print dress that captured my interest. I’ve always thought of Miu Miu as a quirky, sporty-girly brand with a lot of twists and turns in it. There are some consistencies in design, but the label seems more like a stream-of-consciousness project for Miuccia. Every season, I have to re-evaluate my opinion of Miu Miu, more than I would for some of my other favorite designers.

This spring, Miu Miu has decided to reuse the baroque ornamentation from their Fall 06 shoes. (I notice this, because I was obsessed with the collection and eventually bought the below shoe in patent red.) Whether corporate is just being manipulative, trying to reel in more profits by creating a new shoe with some of the old hallmarks of the original, I don’t know. It’s like the ugly stepsister of the first shoe. It’s disappointing that they would take such a beautiful baroque-inspired creation, strip off all the patent leather that was its hallmark, and rework the wood carving into a shoe utterly devoid of personality.

Style.com; Net-A-Porter.com
NOTE. I apologize most sincerely for the poor quality of
this image due to lack of Photoshop on the work computer.
It’s a spring shoe, people, not a lump of deadwood. This thing needs color! If I were given the opportunity to redesign the shoe, I’d paint the heel and the toe wedge gold or silver (with the same burnished feel). Then I’d market the shoe in several different colors of leather: white, light pink, and light green, with the option of patent leather for the white. And I would eliminate those glaringly dark threads used to sew the leather. I HATE when the stitching is ten shades darker or lighter than the leather. I know the Chloé Edith bags sport this design and are pretty popular, but I’m not appealing to the people, I’m appealing to you, Miu Miu!

For shame.

Miu Miu floral carved sandals, available at Net-A-Porter for $550.

036. Fashion qua art. A heavily parsed and simplified thesis.

2008-03-14T10:31:00.010-04:00

A lot of people live, as I like to call it, in a "satisfied" way. They have a few simple goals, to get promoted, to have a family, to achieve certain personal accomplishments, these sorts of things. They don't have an interest in looking at the world in a different way or broadening their understanding of how the world works. They are basically content, confined to dissatisfaction as they comprehend it within their own small world. And that's not necessarily a bad thing.

Unlike such people, I feel that my primary calling is to acquire knowledge; to grow intellectually, continually. I don't believe that a state of nirvana can be achieved during one's lifetime - rather, that such an ideal is something to be striven for but never attained. And as I attempt to comprehend the bigger picture, I have come to the realization that there is no one way to acquire valuable knowledge, nor should only one conclusion be drawn from a collection of data. Therefore, intellectual growth should not have a road map (there can be no how-to book on how to grow as a person) and all people's discoveries are equally valuable to the extent that they help lead up to an overall better understanding of the world.

I've read a small number of published articles intellectualizing fashion lately, which I have enjoyed. Having graduated college an English major, I've developed the ability to intelligently dissect any given work of art. And what I have found, is that you can draw as intelligent a conclusion from a Monet as you can some unknown artist's painting that is selling on Etsy. Famous paintings are often only regarded as brilliant because we believe their creators to be brilliant. But as for ourselves as observers, we are able to derive just as much meaning and metaphor from a blank canvas with a swipe of black paint on it as we should a Da Vinci painting. Hence, modern art. Does the former require as much technical skill or intelligence to create? No, but that does not mean we cannot use it as a stepping stone in our own intellectual growth. We learn something from everything.

OMG TEH AWESOME: MyPrestigium.com
In any event, whatever you think of my theory, since you are reading this, I think you will agree with me when I say that fashion is deeply underestimated as an artistic movement. Just as artwork is entrenched in the culture within which it is created, fashion both reflects the present cultural climate and helps push culture onwards. This process of reflection and growth is vital to the evolution of society. Just as we use the same words again and again in different combinations to form unique, new sentences, designers use fabric again and again to form new creations; even repetition and mimicking has its own significance. As I complain about how H&M does nothing but rip off "real" designers, how does this give me a better understanding of how the world works? What does it tell me about the objectives of people in our society--why have H&Ms been so successful? From an (attemptedly) detached standpoint, should it be? What would have to be different about our culture in order for H&M to fail?

Fashion has a unique position in the world because it is a part of our daily life, yet it is also an artistic expression. The current debate about models being "too thin" to be good role models is interesting because it illustrates that models are no longer as behind the scenes as they used to be; fashion shows which used to be only open to the elite of the fashion world are now open to the public through the aid of sites like Style.com. Models have always been thin, simply so that they do not interfere with the flow of the clothing. (Those who are not thin, serve some other purpose in promoting the clothing.) In general, the tallness and thinness create the effect that they are godlike, elevating the clothes, so that people long to buy them to also achieve deification. And the models themselves are essentially meant to be nonparticipants in the "ordinary" world bearing these covetable commodities, in the process also becoming an ideal which we long to attain.

But do you not think that the recent, intensified focus on (and obsession with) model thinness is a product of society's increased fixation on weight? As the statistically "average" person gains weight in Western society, the divide between him/her and the ideal posited on the runway becomes even more pronounced, in which event it garners attention. The fact of the matter is that models should not be acting as role models in a society that already objectifies bodies to an unhealthy extreme. And perhaps that's why this is happening in the first place. Plus, the presence of fashion in pop culture is increasing, so we are focused on the bodies advertising the clothing.

We can never fully separate the model parading the runway wearing couture from the woman who goes into a store and buys a shirt. Clothing is both art and utility. It was designed to be worn for people. Yet we also celebrate the beauty of clothing that is a statement in itself. This is the sort of quandary that continually tries to divorce idealism and reality. And this amazing contradiction is one of the things that I find fascinating to ponder about fashion.

035. Stomping on all the competition.

2008-03-12T14:31:00.005-04:00

Remember how just the other day I was commenting on how shoes have run rampant lately? How the most unusual constructions have graced the catwalk this year?

Well, the Rick Owens is the king of all rocker-chic boots for FW08. I've never seen such a boot. Remember when you used to rollerblade around the block when you were a kid? How, in order to slow, you leaned back on the rear brake?

I can't see anyone safely rollerblading in a heel this high, but these are definitely reminiscient of those childhood rollerblades...revamped and made uber-cool.

Jean-Luce Huré for The New York Times
Here's another pair...these things are ridonkulous. (And I only use that word in times of extreme need.)

Style.com
Overall, the collection was very dark and interspersed with leather and prominent zippers piecing the constructions together. I genuinely think this is one of the most unique collections I've seen. Space Age meets Hell's Angels meets Aragorn. It's sort of Sin City-ish.

Which is never a bad thing.

Style.com

034. Busted!

2008-03-11T10:53:00.011-04:00

Style.com
So, Paulo Melim Andersson's brief career as Chloé's creative director has come to an end. I don't have the full scoop but it's my assumption that he was fired, not that he actively chose to leave, unless it was mutual.

Too bad for him. Don't get me wrong, I think he did a wonderful job at Marni, and I was really cheering for him when I saw the first collection he did at Chloé. But after the initial high faded, I realized I was still mourning the loss of Phoebe Philo, as well as her predecessor Stella McCartney. I think that his most recent collection - FW08 - was getting closer to what I think of as "Chloé," so I wonder when the bigwigs made the decision to sack him; maybe he was diverging again when starting next year's spring collection, I'm really not sure. I do know that his launch collection was vastly different. One does not associate Doc Marten-esque boots with Chloé. Indeed, one can only reinvent a label so much before it retains no trace of its core identity. I don't condemn Andersson's style, I just don't think it has much relevancy to what has been titled the "Chloé woman."

Andersson will be replaced by Hannah McGibbon, who has worked for Chloé before under the direction of Phoebe Philo. Since I always had a great deal of respect for what Philo did for Chloé, I'm delighted by this change and hope that McGibbon will be successful in healing the rupture that has formed in the eminent fashion label.

Here's a recap on Andersson's Chloé collections, from first to last:

Fall/Winter 2007/8

Style.com

Spring/Summer 2008

Style.com

Fall/Winter 2008/9

Style.com

033. LV a Go-Go.

2008-03-10T13:44:00.008-04:00

I was not a fan of Louis Vuitton last fall. My mouth gaped open at the heinous bags embossed with a comedian's misogynist jokes; the procession of nurses' outfits; and weird veils that matched nothing. I still frown every time I see advertisements for those ridiculous, awful bags (Who approved them? What poor soul would unknowingly wear them?).

The 2008 fall collection rekindled my love for LV. The collection performed a complete 360. It showcased luxury garments in agreeable pastel hues (perhaps as a female submissive response to the collection of yesterseason? Sigh. I am left wishing the memory of SS08 could be erased from my mind. If only).

Style.com
This coat is reminiscent of old-world elegance. The shape is not modern but is tastefully done for the twenty-first century, and looks delightfully warm. During these times of unpredictable weather, one must be prepared for sudden shifts toward freezing temperatures; in which case, I will be wishing that I owned such a beautiful coat.

Style.com
I love this one because it is effortlessly chic. The colors in this collection are just great! (Although I cannot for the life of me understand why this is a fall collection. There was a significant amount of black, but whenever I look at the pastel outfits, I am instantly reminded of Easter baskets.)

Style.com
I was sincerely terrified by this picture and hope that this is the extent of the iceberg that is way-too-high-heeled shoes. I have enough trouble walking in my 5.5" Miu Miu baroque platform wedges. Perhaps these monstrosities are, as in days of old, just for show and only meant for the runway performance.

Style.com
A lot of people may be dismayed to see what they regard a boring handbag in a drab color. I for one am enjoying this reincarnation of understated elegance. I like this collection, in which wealth is recognized primarily in the fine tailoring and design, where there is no need for logos to be displayed so glaringly. It brings me back to the days when ready-to-wear did not yet exist and Mademoiselle Chanel was yet a milliner... *cough* Not that I was alive then. But those were golden times.

In any event, I vastly prefer this subtle take on the LV logo to the usual thing - that horrid tan and chocolate patchwork mess that is replicated ad infinitum until it has graced street kiosks in cities worldwide.

032. Falling flat.

2008-03-10T13:30:00.007-04:00

I hate to be repetitive, but the fashion this spring has been unusually bad. There have been a few good ones: Alexander McQueen (although it rested rather heavily on outsider-designed hats), Ralph Lauren, Givenchy, Moschino. But I have to give it to Nylon for making the best of a bad situation by picking the best of the worst to showcase and doing a damn good job with photography. Other magazines (whom I shall not deign to mention) have spectacularly failed in piquing my interest this season, interspersing vile editorials with humdrum print ads. Now that the screenwriters' strike is over, have the design teams for major magazines taken their place?

But I do have to admit that no publication is to blame for the shoddy fashion jamming up the catwalks. A few interesting designs here or there, but I'm not going to defend the bullshit. Anyone who tells me "We decided to break it all down and start at the bottom so we can build ourselves up again." - yeah, great idea. You've just created the fashion equivalent of the amoeba. Why don't you take us right on back up the evolutionary chain so I can wear something pretty again.

In essence, from what I've seen, many spring collections have tried to rest on flashy colors that border on radioactive. The shape and detailing on garments is minimal. That’s okay because minimalism can be chic, but it’s annoying when you don’t have that one unusual piece that stands out from the crowd. Shoes are going to be the saving grace of fashion this spring.

Now, about them shoes. A fashionable outfit depends on contrast (currently: drab clothing vs. interesting shoes), and I’ve noticed that as heels have risen in height (I believe we will be walking on virtual stilts by 2010 if this trend continues to grow – no pun intended), they’ve also risen in creativity. A little while ago, bags were the It accessory. They were and always will be a fab brag piece to flaunt, but shoes are fast returning to their spot as the collectible item of choice. Let me see if I can rack up a few examples.

Style.com
Here is a Chloé shoe from next fall. It is certainly something to look at. Not only is it produced in a vivid aquamarine, the front is plastered with some exotic variant of a leaf. I don’t know if this is a hail to environmental campaigning (there’s been even more plant-oriented clothing around lately, and not just because it’s spring). But this is a different take on footwear. Normally you’d just see a shoe that matches or complements the more extraordinary fabric, but this is the uniting component of the outfit.

Style.com
Prada’s token spring heel is even more flamboyant. I must say this shoe is much more aesthetically appealing (to me), but it is perhaps even more extreme, with the heel radically altered to form the shape of a flower. The shoe is practically becoming the staple of the collection, whereas Prada’s shirts float on ethereally by.

Style.com
Marc Jacobs’ latest shoes are bizarre. That’s all. They’re just bizarre; and they’re a disaster waiting to happen. That isn’t to say I don’t like them. I enjoy the exotic birds of fashion. But these shoes are extreme and I have visions of tripping in these, catapulting down stairs, dancing through my head. They’re another poster child for the “Look at us. We’re subscribing to the Shoe Extremism trend. Here, let us endanger your safety to prove it” movement.

I admit I am myopic when it comes to fashion. I'm young. I am only well versed in approximately the last half decade in fashion; I don’t presume to be an expert on trends. But clothing seems to be taking a new direction. Whether this leads to good or bad things, we shall see. I have hope that Nicolas Ghesquière will carry us through.

031. God's work, or so they say: Imitating the Imitation.

2008-03-07T11:30:00.006-05:00

TheImitation.com
I remember the high-waisted jeans that Scarlett Johansson wore in an Imitation of Christ fashion show perhaps a year ago; I am also familiar with the infamous garment that proclaimed "Bring me the head of Tom Ford." But I wasn't paying much attention when IOC made its debut, and I was equally preoccupied with other things when it made its exit. And having now done some research on the label, I still don't find the salvaged and reworked clothing that constitutes Imitation of Christ's collection particularly appealing, although I am intrigued by the intellectual component of the subversive enigma that was Tara Subkoff's fashion brainchild. (Of course, how much the label was genuinely contraculture/contratrend is open to speculation. Any capitallist byproduct has its marketing strategy; and every revolution derives from a larger fabric, no pun intended.)

In any event, it was only when Refinery21 announced the premiere of IOC's diffusion label, Imitation by Imitation of Christ, that my curiosity was piqued. Aesthetically, the line resembles and yet is quite different from its extinct predecessor. In fact, Subkoff surrendered the reins to another designer, Kasia Bilinski, and has since gone off to work on other projects.

TheImitation.com
Imitation does not use vintage materials, nor does it have quite the same degree of high-end pricing as its predecessor, although it is also trying very hard to become a niche label and is available at only a few select locations (I haven't been able to find it online anywhere). To me, the simplicity of the pieces resemble IOC's (and are alleged to be produced meticulously with much attention to detail) and garments are in muted tones and solid colors. Imitation's innovation lies, in my opinion, in the sheer fluidity (the organic-ness) of the clothing. When examining the spring collection, I noted the hanging strips of cloth adorning the tops, the looseness of the garments, the freedom implied in the design. But there is also the eerie sense of being watched, of being followed, both in this and the fall-winter collection. The models are mostly alone in open spaces, unaware of the camera's presence, yet, they are dogged by the lens of the camera. This sends a very enigmatic message.

TheImitation.com

It's difficult to pinpoint the purpose of Imitation. The films used to publicize the label are produced by a studio called Dissent Films, and the artwork and design are clearly engineered to cultivate an "outsider" vibe, yet the brand is clearly also "luxury" - no matter how you look at it, Imitation is exclusionary - not that that's necessarily a bad thing. I wonder how long Imitation will stay around, whether its mission and design aesthetic will change dramatically, and who the real client base are for this label.

Imitation by Imitation of Christ, as selling at select stores worldwide.

030. Target's Go Collection a Go?

2008-03-03T22:45:00.008-05:00

I'm not big on retail-giant attempts to bring designer clothing to the masses. For one, it's difficult to translate the unusual garments that designers like Isaac Mizrahi are famous for into something that people who shop at Target would want to wear. And for another, when the clothes cost so little, it's difficult (in fact, impossible) to replicate the fine workmanship that most good RTW - or couture, for that matter - possesses. And lastly, you can't mass-produce exclusivity. It defeats the point. But anyway.

I went to Target yesterday to check out the launch of the store's newest Go collection: the Jovovich-Hawk line. I was antsy about the collection, because I had looked at preview samples online and wasn't as excited as I'd hoped to be about the designs. Jovovich-Hawk cultivates a feminine, frilly look that is difficult to translate into cheap fabrics. The dresses I was looking at were cute, but pretty average, the type of thing you'd see at a JC Penney or Macy's.

What partially redeemed the Jovovich-Hawk for Target line for me was the last dress I tried on: a lacy little dress in eggshell with detailing at the neckline, waist, and hem. The reason I liked it so much is because it was a perfect fit: I don't have much of a waist or hips, and the dress defined the shape of my body instead of rebelling against it. It's difficult to find a dress that suits me well, so that made me happy.

Jovovich-Hawk for Target® Chiffon Dress, $39.99
Target.com
What I found annoying was the price. Although a cute dress, I don't honestly think it is worth $40. The material is not that fantastic a quality, and the design is not incredibly unique. It just happened to fit me particularly well. I'm sure I could find a similar dress for $25 for Forever 21. You're just paying for the Jovovich-Hawk label, on a Target tag no less.

Jovovich-Hawk for Target® Square-Neck Floral Dress, $39.99
Target.com
From this picture, the dress above doesn't look particularly fantastic, but in person, the colors attract the eye. The muted palette is pleasantly intriguing. I was torn between getting this dress and the off-white one, but I finally decided on the latter because this flowery one is absolutely shapeless. If you're thin as a pole with no boobs, go for it - you'll look fantastic.

Jovovich-Hawk for Target® Linen Shorts, $26.99
Target.com
The last item worthy of mention is this cute little pair of shorts. Somebody recently ridiculed the pleated ruffles, but I tried the shorts on and found the detailing adorably whimsical. The buttons are not really to my taste, but they're easily replaceable.

I also tried on some of the blouses the collection offers, but they have a pleat in the back that puffs it out and makes it appear as if you're a hunchback. Is it just me? Or do other people also have this problem? I suspect it's an error in design.

So, is it worth it to check out the Go collections by Target? Yes, if you're looking for a cheap designer fix. But don't expect anything stupendous--why would you? So if you don't mind that the clothes produced by fashion giants like H&M and Forever 21 are blatant, unsanctioned replicas of true designer RTW, I'd go there first, as they cost even less than the officially sponsored stuff.

Check out the real Jovovich-Hawk spring line on their official website. It's definitely worthy of notice.

029. Fresh picks from Nylon!

2008-02-28T18:17:00.006-05:00

Go out and buy it. It's Nylon's spring fashion issue. I admit my faith in Nylon had been slipping in recent months, but this has restored it. Insanely good coverage of what's new and perhaps-hot. I'm only halfway through it and it's hella good. Go read it. That's all.

Also of interest: Nylon's official website, with many an extra goody not found in print.

028. TWENTY8TWELVE by s.miller: Worth the wait?

2008-02-20T17:22:00.010-05:00

Word has been out everywhere about Sienna and Savannah Miller's new clothing line, TWENTY8TWELVE. I myself am not a huge fan of Sienna and consider her style to be rather blah, but hey, I'm a curious person so I decided to check out their spring collection online.

The style is true to the sisters' fashion sense, and I can't blame them for that - why would you want to create a line that didn't cater to your personal aesthetic - but unfortunately, that means overpriced drab plain garments with seemingly nice tailoring but little else.

Siegfried Jacket in Ebonised, $594
RevolveClothing.com
This thing is the demented lovechild of a dowdy housecoat and a raincoat. The three-quarter length sleeves do not work, and the fabric is abnormally thin. It might have some promise if it were offered in a rich purple or emerald, but the black dulls out the look and makes it look trashy.

Blair Tee in Emulsion 50's, $99
RevolveClothing.com
Okay, am I the only one who thinks this looks like a blatant reference to sadomasochism? Located on a bleeding heart, the S and M are strategically placed on each side of a graphic that could be an ampersand! who knows! Only upon close inspection do you discover that it is a pelvis. Is this some sort of jab about the dead seriousness of the label or do the sisters just think it'd be cool if they catered to the McQueen skull-and-crossbones fan base?

Calandra Jacket in Ebonised, $418
RevolveClothing.com
This jacket is the best of what I've seen so far. It's crisp and polished and quite chic. Again, it's the sort of thing Sienna has been seen wearing millions of times. I'm not trying to harp on her style (much), but if you're going to create your own line, might you at least create something you can't buy from OTHER designers?

I just can't decide if I like the line. The basic pieces and ruffled blouses are useful and fashionable, but I'm just not sure if they're worth the price. For basic, deconstructed pieces, TWENTY8TWELVE is your brand, but I'm too apathetic about the collection to generate any real excitement about the clothes.

027. For aspiring designers (and other interested parties).

2008-02-17T22:40:00.005-05:00

I try to include a graphic in every post, but this one has little to do with visuals--it's all about what you create.

Bag Snob recently linked me to Fashion Indie's Ten Best Websites for Fashion Designers. While I'm not a designer and this doesn't technically benefit me, the links they recommend are worth checking look at because they remind you of the intense amount of work that goes into showing a collection and/or producing a line to be sold. I mean, yeah, it's obvious that it takes a TON of work (and luck) to strike it big, but it's so hard to fully grasp the implications of entrepreneurship. No wonder designers are desperate to win Project Runway. It really is a free ride past all many of the troubles one would otherwise have to struggle through.

Unless, of course you're Tory Burch, an heiress who has practically infinite funding to launch her own (and might I add, successful?) line.

026. Reading list: February 2008.

2008-02-17T18:27:00.006-05:00

Amazon.com
I just finished reading The Collection by Gioia Diliberto. The book tells the story of a young girl from provincial France who goes to Paris to work as a seamstress for Chanel. It's an easy read (it took me about a day to finish the 266-page book), and it helps acquaint you with both the process of making couture and the famous couturiers of the early twentieth century.

In detail, Diliberto describes the meticulous, challenging, and time-consuming work that goes into creating a couture garment: unlike other couturiers, in Chanel's workshop, every stitch is literally hand sewn. The author also fleshes out the personality of Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (or as the narrator refers to her, "Mademoiselle"), painting her as a brilliant but mercurial woman who fires workers when they become too valuable because she doesn't want to become too dependent on anyone.

It isn't a heavy-duty book, but it's definitely worth a read if you don't know much about French couture or the great couturiers of yesteryear. $16.50 at Amazon.com.

025. Fashion Week UPDATE.

2008-02-08T15:17:00.001-05:00

I generally try my best to stay away from coverage of spring's Fall Fashion Week for a few months. This isn't because I'm not excited about the clothes, or that I don't want to see them. It's actually due to the fact that I love fall fashion, and it kills me to see the fashion shows and then have to wait seven months at the very least to be able to wear them. All summer I writhe under the sweltering heat, longing for a day when I can wear those gorgeous peacoats I saw on the runway when snow was still on the ground in February!

So you're not going to get endless posts of runway reviews from me. But if you want a recommendation for a good guide to AW08/09, check out Refinery29 Pipeline, which does a fabulous job of covering everything from the fashion shows themselves to the parties that follow to street fashion seen during. And while you're there, check out the main website. This is the best procrastination tool I've found in a while.

024. And you thought puffy shirts died along with Seinfeld.

2008-01-26T22:45:00.001-05:00

ABC.com
I can't help but have a weakness for ABC's new show Cashmere Mafia. Four attractive women living high-powered lives in the Big Apple? Cheating (but droolworthy) husbands? Donald Trump lookalikes? Vacations in the Hamptons? Big paychecks? I hope this is my life in fifteen years. There's no lawyer femme, so my default favorite is Lucy Liu's character, Mia, who has one hell of a fashion stylist. When I saw the poofy sleeves of Episode Two, I was thrilled, awed, and envious. One can never have enough billowy silk tops for the workplace.

It was when I was cruising my recently added Favorites that I stumbled onto this similarly puffy dreamboat of a shirt. Designed by Jens Laugesen, this little number is the dark foil to Lucy Liu's alabaster tunic.

Jens Laugesen
I don't think the puffy shirt is going to become a major trend anytime soon, but it's a niche style that I'm totally digging right now.

023. Something's blooming in Manhattan...

2008-01-15T19:33:00.001-05:00

Elizabeth-Charles.com
In light of the new year, I've decided to start cleaning out my Favorites. This has yielded a real treasure trove of forgotten links. One of these newly rediscovered diamonds in the rough is Elizabeth Charles, a Manhattan boutique featuring designers from the owner's own birthplace, Australia (as well as nearby New Zealand). The boutique's website also provides the opportunity to purchase online. Although I've never been to the store, the images and description on the website have managed to seduce me. The About page describes Elizabeth Charles as "nested in the ground floor of an old brownstone" and "furnished with European antiques and modern mid-century pieces, from the ornate gold framed mirrors to the bird cage shaped chandelier." Essentially, the boutique possesses an Anthropologie-like vibe, but with a slightly higher price tag and bigger brand names.

Here are a few of the clothes available online.

Alice McCall long coat
Elizabeth-Charles.com
I love the schoolgirl feel of this dress. It's simple but also a statement piece that can easily be paired with lots of layers in the winter, or worn independently in the spring and summer months.

Camilla & Marc stephanie frock
Elizabeth-Charles.com
This hoodie looks perfect for cuddling up in front of a roaring fireplace with a Jane Austen novel.

Federation crushed wool raglan hood
Elizabeth-Charles.com
I love this color palette: the muted pink with the gray.

Juliette Hogan serious skirt
Elizabeth-Charles.com
So when you get a chance, check out Elizabeth-Charles.com - and, of course, the accompanying blog!

023. Un petit mort.

2008-01-14T00:49:00.002-05:00

I've decided to let this post be a homage to Alexander McQueen's legendary pale-green ostrich feather gown, which flared up recently, then disappeared forever from Net-A-Porter's sale section, having been conspicuously in the slightly-reduced sale pile for over a year. With it gone from N-A-P's archives, I believe this terminates the dress's availability both online and in stores. But I still fondly remember experiencing this dress in person last winter at the New York McQueen boutique...touching the feathery expanse of the skirt, the fine embroidery around the neck...

Let this fiery star of high fashion be a tribute to the genius and whimsical elegance of my favorite British designer.

Source unknown

Source unknown

Source unknown
And what's the point of buying a dress like this if you can't have a little fun in it?

Source unknown
Without a doubt, this collection ranks among my top five favorite shows ever.

022. Hark, the clearance sales are beginning--

2007-12-26T22:16:00.001-05:00

Fall down and weep with joy, my fellow fashionistas - for the winter sales have begun. For all my complaints about recent fashion, even I can't turn down a good sale.

So here are a few low-key fashion picks to check out. Lesser-known designer names whose quality rivals the big name brands who have been sadly lacking in taste as of late.

First up is Tsumori Chisato, whose dresses are oddly reminiscent of ancient tapestries. Yet the frocks are a casual take on modern street style.

ShopBird.com
Next is Iosselliani's Pearl Stacking rings. While this isn't on sale, I just had to include it. What an exquisite panoply of gemstones! $351 at Adele.

Adele.com
And the perfect little party dress, straight from Nanette Lepore at Shoptwigs, casts a modest but flirty shadow at any bash.

Adele.com
More to come soon, I hope!

021. Woe.

2007-12-18T16:24:00.002-05:00

Well, I've been trying to think of things to post here. I could do the usual and comment on some new unusual piece of clothing, but this is not the time. The time has come...To Rant.

What is going on with spring fashion? What has happened to good fashion? I got home after finals, eager to flip through the new Vogue and W, and what do I get? Abysmal editorial after abysmal editorial, not that the articles were any better. I can't even begin to describe the mediocrity of the ads. Prada, fie on thee. And Dior, words cannot even begin to describe.

Style.com
Bring back the glory! Bring it back!

020. Chaos in Fashion Paradise.

2007-12-02T22:14:00.000-05:00

(Courtesy of MSN)

Just found this on MSN Travel. This is a picture of the Galeries Lafayette in Paris during the holiday season. Now, let's forget for a second that I have no idea how they got that tree into a building (if indeed it is a real tree, not many small trees glued together to form a contiguous whole). Can anyone explain to me how they fit it into that area?

I don't know if any of you are familiar with the Galeries - it is one of the most famous department stores in Europe - but what you are seeing in the picture is the central area where the cosmetic kiosks are situated (I believe you can make out the words "LANVIN" faintly in the bottom left-hand corner). What kiosk(s) have been completely obliterated to make way for this monstrosity of a Christmas decoration? And more importantly, where did they get a ribbon that huge? I am impressed at the extravagant inventiveness of the French!

Well, the one thing I do know is that the Galeries will probably be getting a lot less traffic this year. The exchange rate for the US$ is currently abysmal, so Europeans are getting much of their shopping done in America. I hope the trend reverses itself soon - even last Christmas, when I was in London, I kept seeing flight discounts to NYC emphasizing the benefit of shopping abroad. You know the exchange rate is bad when you still save money with the additional cost of purchasing a plane ticket from London to NYC.

019. MARNI-COVETERS, REJOICE!

2007-11-29T18:24:00.001-05:00

I've just been informed by the secret fashion grapevine that just in time for the holiday season, Marni's Virtual Store is going to be holding a sale on all(?) of its Fall/Winter '08 stock. It begins Friday November 30. Yes, that's tomorrow, ladies and gentlemen!

Hopefully some of these items will go on sale...

Marni.com
Is that perfection in a ballet flat? Why yes it is.

Marni.com
I'm very taken by how the bold shiny ribbon-type thing overtakes the muted color of the fabric. This is an excellent festive-yet-understated winter piece!

Marni.com
What can I say, I am a sucker for expensive lingerie. The last pair I bought came to about $200 USD - but the price of this bra already tops the price of that entire set. I can't believe John Galliano is cheaper!

Marni.com
You say bizarre-looking batwing dress that should never be worn in public...I say work of art, and I would wear it for a trip to Starbucks. It would look fantastic next to a pumpkin spice frappuccino!

Marni.com
This necklace combines two of my favorite things: Marni's eccentric granny necklaces, and the feather trend. Who wouldn't want to wear this around her neck, I ask you??

Ah, why'd I have to be notified in advance about this sale? Now I'm on pins and needles until the Marni Online staff get around to putting things on sale, which they always take forever to do!

018. Heimstone.

2007-11-19T22:53:00.001-05:00

Heimstone is definitely one of my favorite up-and-coming designers. French in origin, the label has already set up shop in a number of boutiques across the world. The ubiquitous model showing off the collection has become infamous in underground fashion circles, and her look (slightly grungy touseled-hair chic) is exactly the kind of look I love.

In my opinion, Heimstone's biggest assets are its color palette and the hardware immanent in the design. Heimstone utilizes muted, earthy tones that accentuate what is actually very sophisticated tailoring. The collections then use a variety of hardware like grommets, cloth buttons, zippers, and all sorts of other three-dimensional "props" to incorporate a bit of a punk vibe to the clothing. Overall, Heimstone is the epitome of edgy. Which is one of my favorite words to use to compliment a designer, so yay.

Heimstone.com
I absolutely fell in love with this dress. Zippers, asymmetry, that glam-rocker look - this is everything I look for when I'm shopping!

Heimstone.com
This jacket is absolutely fabulous. Not only is it going to be pretty much universally flattering, it's a weird combination of military and Victorian with the tufted sleeves and straight lines that turns out a fabulous silhouette.

Heimstone.com
While I wouldn't wear this dress (trust me, I'd look abysmal in it), I can still admire it from afar. I adore the hooks connecting the shoulder straps, and as usual there is a fair degree of complexity to the dress but it remains a basic piece that can be worn with a lot of things.

Heimstone dresses are priced at around $450 a dress, which I don't find to be excessive considering the amount of workmanship that goes into these garments. But I'll be keeping my fingers crossed that they go on sale somewhere soon!

017. The long-awaited review: High-waisted denim.

2007-11-18T14:01:00.001-05:00

Unlike some fashionistas, I don't own a lot of denim. Although I do respect high-quality, high-priced jeans, they are not top priority for me. You can only get so creative with denim, because it's only one type of material. I prefer to spend my money on unusual tops or dresses.

When the high-waisted jeans fad broke onto the fashion scene, I reacted with dismay. Let it be known that I do not have the body considered ideal for high-waisted jeans, primarily because I have no waist. I am an apple shape, so my body is a straight line down. No hourglass figure to be accentuated by high-waisted items here. But after the panic subsided, I grew apathetic. I began to doubt that the style - rather extreme in nature - would catch on. And in truth, it hasn't. I've seen a moderate amount of people wearing high-waisted jeans, and pairs have appeared in a number of stores, but it hasn't affected style as drastically as I expected (at least where I live!). And so I let the thought of high-waisted things slip my mind.

But just the other day, I entered a store, saw a pair, and decided to give it a try. After all, why not? My reflection might break the mirror, but at least then I could give a critique based on actual experience.

In reality, they looked adorable! I tried a nautical-inspired pair, with buttons in a boomerang curve where the pockets are usually located, a zipper on one side. There was no bulge where the zipper usually would be in the front (my stomach always causes a slight jutting-out), just unhindered smoothness. In shock, I realized the high waist was a success!

For me, though, because I don't have a small torso, I cannot do with huge flares or baggy pants; they make the smallest part of me look oversized. Boot-cut or skinny leg jeans are best. Keeping this in mind, I did a little bit of shopping online to see what I could come up with:

"Eternity" high-waisted jean, $95
SilverJeans.com
I really like the zigzag cut at the top of the jeans. It's cute and is probably copied from of the Miss Sixty high-waisted pair that I've been unable to locate online. Unfortunately, I'm not a huge fan of dark-wash denim (I prefer black over dark blue) and the quality of the jeans is questionable. Plus--it's sold out!

"Squeaze" high-waisted jean, $170
Diesel Online Store
I'd like to think you can't go wrong with a pair of Diesels, but there's a bit of a weird bulge effect around the waist. I'm not sure if that's due to the shirt being tucked into a very tight pair of jeans or what. On the other hand, the stirrup-bottom of the jeans has a nice effect and the tailoring looks very nicely done.

Here are two other sources of high-waisted jeans I'll have to check out outside the Web:

Sass & Bide
Superfine London

Sass & Bide have a wonderful stretch to their denim that doesn't cause them to become too loose, but keeps you comfortable, making high-waisted a yes; and Superfine is a superb purveyor of unique denim fabrics (besides that, the photo campaign on their website is gorgeous and has unequivocally seduced me).

Happy hunting!

016. Balenciaga, je t'aime...

2007-11-15T17:50:00.001-05:00

I swore my obsession with Balenciaga bags was over. Truth be told, I have gotten tired of the iconic "mini motorcycle" fad. I still love them, but I'm no longer as passionate as I used to be about them, perhaps because the ghastly image of countless fakes has been burned into my retinas. So I thought I'd moved on to newer, equally innovative handbags from other fashion houses.

But then Balenciaga came out with this unforgettable bag.

Matches.com
Balenciaga Moon Bag
Price: approximately $2600 USD (minus VAT - yeah, big whoop)
Description: Glossy chestnut brown leather handbag, with black handles. Envelope style front pocket with black trim. Black leather band around top of bag, shiny gold clasp and hardware. Fully lined with interior zip pocket. Fabric, 100% leather.

*drools*

NOOOOO! NOT ON THE LEATHER! CONTROL YOURSELF, GIRL!

When I say some bags are a work of art, I genuinely mean it. True, I like being noticed when I walk around in outfits that normal people wouldn't wear. So yes, in part, I enjoy dressing up for the theatrical effect. But on the other hand, I also wear certain things to pay homage to them. It is as if I am the mere vessel for a traveling art collection. Some of it stays home, though. My Miu Miu baroque platform wedges, for example. I want to frame them - put them in a shadow box, perhaps.

There's something indescribably beautiful about this bag, something infinitely graceful yet sturdy to its shape. I adore the oversized fastener on the front and the black leather trim on the front pocket. I ask you, could a more perfect bag ever be made? No - although there may yet be bags that are equally flawless.

I'm very hopeful about this bag's status as a rare treasure. I don't think it has enough mainstream appeal to have fakes made of it. But only time will tell what shows up on eBay.

015. Fashion's Hydra: Sonia Rykiel Spring '07.

2007-11-09T18:52:00.001-05:00

Sonia Rykiel's Spring Ready-To-Wear consisted of an eclectic mix of soft-hued dresses, bold jumpsuits, and frilly bathing suits. Usually I prefer when a designer sticks to a central theme, but every piece had its appeal.

I owned a denim button-up jumpsuit when I was in high school. I thought I looked so hot until someone told me I looked like J.Lo in it, at which point I quickly discarded said jumpsuit (it still hangs, gathering dust, in the deepest recesses of my closet). So while the word "jumpsuit" carries a sense of shame for me these days, Sonia Rykiel's jumpsuits' boldness of pattern and brilliance of color generate a highly covetable semi-vintage look. The sunglasses are the crowning glory of this outfit: I love how ridiculously audacious they are.

Style.com
Now on to the dresses. This is spring in all its glory. The silken, billowing dresses of the collection conjure to mind the pastel hues of lilacs and the gentle breezes of mild spring weather. I find myself quoting Wordsworth as I look at these dresses -- "I wandered lonely as a cloud..."

*cough* Uh, on to the picture.

Style.com
Even though this bathing suit looks as if it would fall apart at the mere mention of water, its complete lack of functionality endows it with a sense of delicacy. And being the type of person who literally avoids the sun for fear of getting a tan, I'd much rather wear this than some water-resistant spandex number.

Style.com
I'm not so sure about wearability, but I'll be interested to see how the runway pieces translate to what will be appearing on clothes hangers come spring.

014. Autumn opulence: A tribute to diffusion lines.

2007-10-11T18:50:00.001-04:00

D&G Minidress with Scarf, $840, and Short Belted Trenchcoat, $1295
NeimanMarcus.com

I usually think that D&G items are garish, trashy, and cheap-looking, but this outfit is spot on! I'm a huge fan of polka dots and ruffled blouses, and the dress makes the best of both styles. Plus the coat is absolutely gorgeous. Crimson satin and that little ruffle at the waist? Perfection.

However, I'm surprised (and a little disappointed) the prices are so high. I suppose the quality/type of fabric of these two garments could be the cause, but it's still disheartening to see a less pricey line go up in cost. It's already difficult enough to pay for my wardrobe; any increase is bad news for me.

013. Expectations plummet; but carpetbags save the day!

2007-10-01T00:16:00.001-04:00

What in the name of all hell is THIS? Stefano, have you something to say for yourself? Domenico?

Style.com
Ew. Ewwwww.

Most of Dolce & Gabbana's Spring 08 collection failed to impress me. Some of it fell flat like this abysmally standard floral print dress, and some of it tried too hard to create a tailored look that was not suited at ALL for the type of material used. It mainly makes me sad because I always have such high expectations for Dolce & Gabbana. For the last half dozen or so collections, I'd hardly been able to find a single thing to hate.

But I'll admit, I liked some of the pieces from this spring. The carpetbag material used for both accessories and garments, even if it didn't work well with the business suits, was brilliant (see skirt below for example).

Style.com
The collection also had an adorable selection of eclectic shoes and handbags, with checkers and patterns taking the forefront.

Style.com
So in conclusion: it wasn't all bad, but it certainly wasn't all good...

012. House of Holland v.2.0.

2007-09-21T18:14:00.001-04:00

House of Holland has come a long way in the past year, from esoteric obscurity to Style.com's front page. And Henry Holland has completely redesigned his look, and added a team of accesory-makers to the mix.

Style.com
The bag = gorgeous. And I love the garish rocker look being promoted for the spring. Compare it to this fall's look, whose colors and shapes reminded me of the all-too-bubbly Harajuku Girls line (see below).

Style.com
Speaking of London's Fashion East, here's the adorablest little frock from Nanou:

Style.com

Chromosomes as embellishments...who would have thought? Well, it works!

011. Middlingly expensive knockoffs?

2007-09-21T15:45:00.001-04:00

It no longer comes as a shock to me when designers rip each other off. After all, fashion is one of the most competitive and cannibalistic industries in existence. But there are some situations when it's undeniable that you've ripped another designer off. It's not that you've been "inspired" or that another designer's collection has furbished you with an idea for your own collection. You're unabashedly stealing to make a profit. Which is (somewhat) all right when you're a chain retailer like Forever 21, but if you try to make some serious money off it, fear my wrath!

They do say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, but I don't think that applies to all situations...

Here's one of Chloé's signature dresses from this fall:

Style.com
And here's the culprit, a dress by AKA New York ($345):

ShopBop.com
If AKA hadn't slimmed down the silhouette of the dress and made a few other tailoring alterations, this would be the Chloé. AKA New York? Ha. They should consider renaming themselves "AKA Chloé."

Is it just me or does Chloé seem to be bearing the brunt of knockoffers these days? (Case in point: the jumpsuit incident earlier this year.) It must suck being one of the most eminent design labels of the millennium. Everyone wants to be you. Mmmm...

010. "What the hell is that?" "It's an Oswald Lorenzo."

2007-09-18T17:26:00.000-04:00

The second season of Ugly Betty premieres next Thursday, September 27 at 8:00. Every episode, I hope against hope that America Ferrera will have a Devil Wears Prada-esque makeover, to no avail. Maybe someday I'll come to terms with the fact that her character has to dress the way she does, but seriously, hope springs eternal...

009. The New Chanel: Like It or Leave It?

2007-09-04T23:32:00.001-04:00

"Chanel repudiated all prior canons of style and beauty. Her fashions epitomized the New Woman, youthful, independent, lithe, and athletic."
(From The City Review)

Style.com
I know you've seen it. I've seen it. We've all seen it. And no, it's not something you'd ordinarily expect from Chanel.

Admittedly, fashion houses have always had a playful side: remember Chanel's take on the skull trend? Recently, the designer label has certainly demonstrated that it wants to maintain a standing alongside chic and upbeat younger labels. But penguin sweaters, Mr. Lagerfeld?

Chanel has always striven to remain ageless rather than appear antiquated, but more and more it appears to be catering to the younger generation specifically. Take a look at another of this fall's pieces:

Style.com
And now contrast it to a piece from only the year before. (These pieces are meant to be representative of the two runway shows; I didn't pick a flamboyant piece from 2007 and a conservative one from 2006.)

Style.com
As you can see, while they are both playful, the eclectic mix of color and pattern in the 2007 garments are much more youthful than that of the 2006 outfit. And I don't think you can chalk it up to trends, either. The 2007 is rebellious, even edgy. The 2006 is playful and dark, but in a distinguished way, somehow. And while I consider all three photos to embody what I consider the Chanel "essence" - that inarticulable something, the quirkiness of the French mingled with an elegant refinedness - there has clearly been an compulsory evolution in style, even over the course of a single year. Indeed, I did read recently that Chanel has been falling in profits and is trying to revive itself by catering to a younger pool of clientele. So maybe this explains things, at least partially.

This begs the question: As a member of the twentysomething group, do I like the "new" Chanel? Stylistically, most certainly. I'd wear this in an heartbeat. And I do think the transition is graceful, incorporating both the new and old, taking the best of both. But each to their own. I won't fault you if you long for Chanel's yesteryear. And the penguin sweater? Not for me, but there will be dozens of people willing to pay $1,000+ for a Chanel granny sweater, I can assure you.

008. The Preciousss, we wants it...

2007-09-02T02:41:00.003-04:00

Matches.com
Looking to get your hands on the One Ring? Sick of battling orcs and Uruk-Hai for that little piece of gold? Want a safer alternative that won't drain your energy as soon as you start approaching a mountain?

Turns out Sauron wasn't quite as original as he thought. Matches offers Nicolas Ghesquière's version for £775.

In my opinion, Net-A-Porter hasn't got anything over this UK-based store. They've got a zoom function, a little "Recently Viewed" area, an amazing lookbook -- you name it. Even though overseas shipping is presumably heinous, if you're going to be paying £775 for a few measly hoops of metal, hey, no biggie. Go for it!

And seriously, you saw something on the catwalk you liked? It's here. Talk about temptation. I'm writhing right about now.

007. English tweed and French flair...

2007-08-27T23:16:00.001-04:00

Newsboy cap by J.Crew, $49
J.Crew.com
J.Crew seems to be shaping up nicely this fall. Their array of cashmere sweaters, ruffled blouses, and bookish prints (see example here) is a welcome respite from the some of the more garish pieces being featured this season. And check out their adorable French-esque montage on the main page of the website. Is that the Seine I see? Ooh la la!

006. Shades of gray.

2007-08-21T00:32:00.002-04:00

Style.com
Fashion news flash: apparently the "it" color for the season is gray. (Another set of hues also rumored to be big this fall: metallics, but I ask you, when have metallics ever not been big? Gold and silver will never go out of style. Duh.)

At first, I was baffled - no, dismayed - by the extensive amount of gray flooding the scene. There were gray dresses, gray shoes, gray scarves, gray handbags en masse. And quite frankly, I freaked. Because gray is not exactly my color. In fact, I don't even consider it to be a color. It's gray, for god's sake. Gray is what you associate with obsolete, ancient black-and-white films. It's the epitome of drabness, even more so than black. Black is sexy. Gray is...well...boring. And it washes you out! I scoffed at the idiocy of the trend.

But I kept on looking. (I couldn't help it; everywhere I went, I saw gray.) And slowly, I began to come around. I began to notice the subtleties of a single color. Gray can be warm or cold, metallic or misty. It has been proven that once you've been subjected to the same thing repetitively for a long period of time, the mind attempts to find variety, to keep itself sane. And so I began to notice the variety that a color I formerly considered so drab could possess.

Here are just a few of the gray gems I've been lusting after recently:
Botkier Bryant Large Hobo
Marni Sleeveless Dress
Diane Von Furstenburg Ungaro Dress in Multi
Morphine Generation Script Hoodie in Night and Knit Vest in Steel
Pedro Garcia Daimi Suede Pumps

The key to working the gray this fall is moderation and contrast: balance gray with more vivid colors, and don't wash yourself out by overdoing either.

005. Cover up: gloves for fall!

2007-08-16T21:36:00.001-04:00

My sister has been taking horseback riding lessons since she was eleven, and having done a little riding myself, I can testify to the absolute rural grunge of the experience. I mean, the magazines totally glorify it, what with their tidy little Ralph Lauren ensembles and those damn Balenciaga riding helmets. Even cowgirl couture looks polished and well oiled.

In reality, even for the wealthy, it makes little sense to wear something stylish and beautiful when you're out in the ring because it will inevitably be ruined in some way or another. Horses drool, dust is everywhere, and you're exposed to any and all weather conditions. So for a long time, I feared for my sister's fashion sense. I thought, what an atmosphere to grow up in! A place where comfort is often valued over appearance - the very contradiction to the fashion maxim Beauty is pain!

You will imagine my surprise when I stumbled onto the treasure trove that is Bits & Bridles Tack Shop. Adorable plaid jackets with those little elbow flaps: check. Sleek knee-high riding boots and chunky lace-up paddock boots, available in both new and vintage: check. Beautiful leather gloves for a mere $32 (pictured above): check. In summary: do not discount your local tack shop. Mulberry gloves for fall aren't even out, yet somehow this place is already stocking comparable leather goods in its dressage section. Diamonds in the rough, I tell you!

004. Downgrading cost but preserving quality: priceless.

2007-08-11T20:37:00.001-04:00

Well, I've said it before and I'll say it again: I am a bag snob. I like expensive bags. Actually, I love expensive bags. And I buy them...again and again. I am always searching for a cheaper alternative, but I am addicted to the illustrious brand names, the high quality, the, the--je ne sais quoi.

But. Every once in a while I fall in love with a more reasonably priced line of bags. Linea Pelle is one such case. The handbags are priced between $300-$500, with clutches under $150.

Angie Satchell in Crimson
CoutureCandy.com
Gah, that gorgeous lipstick red! Temptation! But if you're looking for something similar in a smaller size, Linea Pelle also happens to make a clutch-sized version for a mere $125. What a steal!

003. Kaaarl...

2007-08-11T18:23:00.001-04:00

Okay, so I'll admit that I'm pretty much out of the loop when it comes to documentaries, but when I caught wind of a documentary called Lagerfeld Confidential that has apparently been exhibited at the German Film Festival, I got intrigued and started researching it.

I still haven't found a leak to the video online, but during my search, I discovered another documentary on YouTube called "Signe Chanel." It apparently aired on the BBC last fall. The person who uploaded the series of videos describes them as a "rare look into Karl Lagerfeld and the House of Chanel."

The highlight of that first video is definitely the narrator's syrupy cooing in French. "Kaaarl Lagerfeld. Kaaarrl... Kaaarrrlllll..." What the heck was going on during that voice recording session? Anyhoo.

The director of this series is Loïc Prigent, who has also apparently done a documentary on Marc Jacobs. I definitely can't wait until that one becomes available...

002. Caveat emptor.

2007-08-10T00:04:00.000-04:00

I must be blunt: one of my biggest pet peeves is knockoff designer bags. The things are loathsome. The fake leather, the cheaply manufactured buckles, the bad stitching...oh, it burns, it burns!

But far be it from me to scorn people who can't afford the real thing. I completely sympathize if you aren't able to buy high-end designer accessories. I may own a Chanel, but the money I used to purchase that bag did not come out of a trust fund. (Truth be told, it came out of the parental food check during my study abroad trip to London; I was living on porridge for weeks.) I may aspire to have the It items - but as a member of the upper-middle class, I am only able to afford a scant few true couture accessories per season. No one should feel ashamed if she can't afford a shiny new authentic Chanel. Many feel that the only alternative is to buy the knockoff.

I occasionally wish that I, too, could have the guts to buy a knockoff, even though it can't possibly match the intricate craftsmanship of a real designer bag. The siren song emanates from the street stands, and the voice in your head whispers, "But I want so very badly for my friends/my co-workers/the dogwalker across the street and her seventeen Pomeranians to be jealous of me, and all it takes is fifty bucks instead of fifteen hundred. They'll never be able to tell the difference between a real and a fake. There's absolutely nothing wrong with it. I'm entitled to an It bag, too, aren't I?"

Perhaps, but purchasing a fake may not produce the desired effect (envy, worship).

Okay, so. Overall, consumer relations function largely according to the principles of supply and demand. Example: You see a celebrity carrying a particular designer bag. Because it is available to the elite but difficult for the lay person to get ahold of, it becomes desirable. Low supply, high demand. Then consider the consequences of those sweatshops in Asia churning out replica after replica: Supply goes up. Ergo, demand goes down. The coveted item has, through the process of knockoff production, dwindled to a cheap trick. No one's going to be jealous of you when they can easily get the very same thing. So what was the point of all that? You want the replica just so you can say you surfed the Marc Jacobs Stam bag wave?

I think some people will say that they want the knockoff because it is their only way of paying tribute to a bag they find beautiful. That's a good point. However, it does not take into consideration the long hours that the original designer spent designing the bag and prepping it for utilitarian wear (FYI: it takes nearly a year for a leather designer handbag to hit the market after its conception, because it must pass a rigorous set of tests and procedures to ensure that it will hold up under daily stressors). Keep in mind that you are paying your respects to the owner of a sweatshop (who has, might I add, ripped off someone else's intellectual property) rather than the designer him- or herself. If you want to honor the artisan(s) who have brainstormed a product, cut out pictures from a magazine, create a shrine, and burn candles. Or set the image as your desktop wallpaper. I don't care. Imitation may be the sincerest form of flattery, but it's not right for the imitation to make profits from the original.

So go ahead and buy your fakes and replicas. It is your choice to make. Myself, I like the feeling that I've worked my frickin' ass off to pay the insane amount of money it costs to buy Miu Mius and Marnis these days. I like to feel that I've earned it, even if other people don't recognize that it's even authentic, and people who walk around carrying a decent-looking replica piss me off because they've accomplished the same look for much less.

In conclusion: authentic handbags are ultimately more fulfilling, but I suppose I can be understanding if you want to save your money for, say, the noble purpose of paying your monthly mortgage. (N.B.: you can always patronize such sites as www.bagborroworsteal.com when desperate times call for desperate measures.) And there are plenty of small-scale designers who produce fantastic bags for decent prices. Don't cheapen yourself by buying an It Bag simply because it's an It Bag. You can do better than that.

001. Initiation.

2007-08-07T01:16:00.002-04:00

Inevitable: that this fashion blog should be conceived at 1:17 AM on a Tuesday morning. But after all, the best things in life spring into existence at the most bizzare moments in time.

To christen this wonderful moment, I conjure forth an effigy of beloved Nicolas Ghesquière, who has been an enormous source of inspiration to me as I worship, adore, and learn about the art of clothing design and the enormous role that fashion plays in the modern world.

Style.com
Thank you, sir. And here's to many happy returns.